{"id":290,"date":"2020-07-27T22:56:45","date_gmt":"2020-07-27T22:56:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/?page_id=290"},"modified":"2021-03-22T15:42:30","modified_gmt":"2021-03-22T15:42:30","slug":"planning-planting-and-maintenance","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/planning-planting-and-maintenance\/","title":{"rendered":"Planning, Planting and Maintenance"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p style=\"font-size:22px\"><strong><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Planning your shelterbelt <\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Often the most important step in shelterbelt planning is choosing plants that are suitable to successfully grow in your geographic location. Other planning aspects include choosing your shelterbelt design and determining equipment needed. Identifying your concerns of the area and determining how a shelterbelt could help mitigate these concerns is important as well. You should also assess your environment in the area and be sure that it can withstand the addition of a shelterbelt. After planting, monitoring is important to make sure your shelterbelt is making progress at executing your goals. After this, modifications can also be made in areas that you deem necessary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/Black-soil-1024x687.jpeg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-468\" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/Black-soil-1024x687.jpeg 1024w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/Black-soil-300x201.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/Black-soil-768x515.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/Black-soil.jpeg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Image 1. Measurements being taken to determine shelterbelt spacing. <br>Source: Colin Laroque<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Planning<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Whatever plans are made for your shelterbelt, one or two alternative designs should also be brainstormed in case the primary design is no longer an option. After the implementation process begins, one might also find that a secondary shelterbelt design may actually be more suitable for your goals.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Perhaps the most important step in shelterbelt planning is doing research and choosing plants that are suitable to successfully grow in your geographic location.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Another part of planning your shelterbelt is which shelterbelt design you will select, and the equipment needed to prepare and create such a design.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>As you plan your shelterbelt, keep the following considerations in mind:<ul><li>Locate your shelterbelt where it will be most effective at its purpose<\/li><li>Design the shelterbelt to meet your goals with the available space<\/li><li>Choose suitable plants (as mentioned above)<\/li><li>Prepare the site before planting any shelterbelt species&nbsp;<\/li><li>Arrange means for labour<\/li><li>Provide a nursery or simply care and protection for the seedlings until time for planting<\/li><li>Means to control weeds before and after the planting stage&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The objective(s) of your shelterbelt<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>During the planning stage, the potential site for a shelterbelt should be assessed. Identifying your concerns of the area and determining how a shelterbelt could help mitigate these concerns is important. You should also assess your environment in the area and be sure that it can withstand the addition of a shelterbelt. For example, soils low in nutrients might not be able to cope with additions of large plants such as trees. These issues should be taken into consideration before a shelterbelt is implemented.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Potential objectives of a shelterbelt include:&nbsp;<ul><li>Reduction of: soil erosion, wind disturbance, snow drift and buildup, odour, noise to and from surrounding areas, net greenhouse gas emissions and dust volume<\/li><\/ul><ul><li>Insulation of buildings and reducing energy consumption and costs<\/li><li>Protecting, shading and insulating livestock from weather<\/li><li>Aesthetics and beautification of the area<\/li><li>Providing wildlife habitat and increasing biodiversity of the area&nbsp;<\/li><li>Visual screening<\/li><li>Capturing atmospheric carbon<\/li><li>Increasing property value<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Implementation and monitoring<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Smaller shelterbelt projects may not require much planning, but larger ones do.&nbsp;<\/li><li>One must consider what means they have available to implement and monitor the potential shelterbelt. Are the proper supplies and resources available, such as laborers, tools, machinery, and solutions (e.g., herbicides)?<\/li><li>After planting, monitoring is important to make sure your shelterbelt is making progress at executing your goals. It may take years for you to conclude whether it has or not. This is why it is important to regularly monitor your shelterbelt.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Modifications<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>After implementing and monitoring your shelterbelt for a period of time, modifications can be made in areas that you deem necessary. Areas such as weed management or pruning methods can be altered. A trial-and-error basis may be necessary, but be sure to do research before altering your environment again in new ways, to prevent unnecessary damage.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Objectives also can be modified or additional ones can arise. Priorities may have changed altogether. With proper planning of new objectives and modifications, there is a better chance that all (new or old) goals can be met.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Shelterbelt Design<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are several types of trees and shrubs that can be used in a shelterbelt for various purposes. Different plant species have different growth times, heights, densities, lifespans, etc., which all play a role in creating shelterbelts with various purposes. Creating a sketch of the shelterbelt area can greatly help the planning and designing process.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>Different plant species have different growth times as well as characteristics such as height, density and longevity which all play a role in creating a successful shelterbelt.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Height<ul><li>Shelterbelt height of course influences the area that the shelterbelt will affect. With a taller shelterbelt, more area is protected.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Growth times and longevity<ul><li>If you want your shelterbelt to come into effect quickly, decide on fast-growing tree and shrub species. Fast-growing species are often also short-lived so slower-growing trees can be planted alongside them to combat this.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Density<ul><li>Tree and shrub density influences wind protection. Therefore if you have a denser tree cover, less wind will penetrate through the shelterbelt.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Shrub species protect the area closer to the ground surface.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Coniferous trees with dense, year-round foliage can greatly help protect the surrounding area from wind and snow. In contrast, deciduous trees and shrubs lose their foliage in the fall so during the cold months deciduous shelterbelts are less effective.<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Tree age<ul><li>Younger trees also protect the area closer to the ground surface. Older trees protect the area higher above the ground surface.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Tree placement<ul><li>Shelterbelts are very effective with five rows of tree and shrub species. If there is not adequate space for five rows, it is better to plant less rows, such as three, instead of crowding more rows in a tight space. One must allow full growth of a shelterbelt for it to be most effective so overcrowding is never recommended. If three rows would even seem to be too tightly crowded, a two-row shelterbelt is an appropriate alternative for such a crowded area. It is even better if the trees in each row are staggered from the other row. This allows for optimal protection. Conifers are recommended for these two or three row shelterbelts.&nbsp;One row shelterbelts are also an option, depending on its purpose as well (i.e., planted on arable land). <\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5848-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-442\" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5848-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5848-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5848-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5848-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5848-136x102.jpg 136w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5848.jpg 2016w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Image 1. One possible design for a shelterbelt: a field shelterbelt consisting of common caragana. <br>Source: Colin Laroque<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Developing a sketch of the area&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Creating a sketch of the shelterbelt area can greatly help the planning and designing process. Important considerations include:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Noting the orientation on the sketch pad (e.g., north arrow)<\/li><li>Identifying trouble areas needing mitigation by the shelterbelt such as areas of snow buildup, flooding areas, steep slopes or lagoons<\/li><li>Noting the wind directions wishing to be protected from<\/li><li>Locating current or future buildings and structures present in the area<\/li><li>Identifying distances between structures and the shelterbelt area<\/li><li>Noting property lines, powerlines and utility structures, fences, and roads<\/li><li>Locating existing trees and other plants<\/li><li>Noting landscape features such as hills, wet areas, grassy areas and crops<\/li><li>Sketching in the new locations of the future shelterbelt, noting the species selected, the spacing, and the length and width of shelterbelt rows.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Selecting tree and shrub species<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Soil and climatic conditions are normally the largest factors in determining which species are suitable for a shelterbelt. Native species are normally best since they are adapted to these conditions. It is often recommended to plant various plant species in a shelterbelt to promote diversity. You also want to focus on species that can thrive in your specific soil zone. In Saskatchewan, there are 4 soil zones: Brown, Dark Brown, Black and Grey. Different plant species survive better in different soil zones and it is beneficial to determine these species for your zone.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>Usually 2-5 species of shrub and tree are used in a shelterbelt, but of course this can change. Shelterbelts can consist of only 1 species, to more than 5.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Soil and climatic conditions are normally the largest factors in determining which species are suitable for a shelterbelt (alongside the purpose of the shelterbelt). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Native species are normally best since they are adapted to these conditions. However, non-native species have been used successfully in shelterbelts as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is normally recommended to plant various plant species in a shelterbelt to promote diversity. Diversity is beneficial in all natural environments including shelterbelts. More benefits and services are provided by multiple species of tree and shrub. There is also less of a chance of a massive loss of biomass from events such as disease, insect infestation, fire or drought. This is because different species react differently and have different adaptations to withstand such events.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Soil zones<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Which trees and shrubs to select for your shelterbelt mainly depend on the climate of the area and the purpose of the shelterbelt. Site characteristics such as nutrient level also play a role in helping determine which tree and shrub species can thrive there.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You also want to focus on species that can thrive in your specific soil zone. Soil zones are large geographical areas where one soil type dominates. In Saskatchewan specifically, there are 4 soil zones: <strong>Brown, Dark Brown, Black and Grey.<\/strong> Brown is found in southern Saskatchewan, Dark Brown is found around the Saskatoon area, Black is found around Prince Albert and Grey is found more north but below the Boreal Forest area of the province. Different plant species survive better in different soil zones because soil zones have different characteristics regarding soil moisture, nutrient regime, pH, climate, etc. The colours Brown, Dark Brown, Black and Grey represent the <strong>soil organic carbon (SOC)<\/strong> contents of the soil and their relationship to the climate. The southwest corner of the province has the lowest moisture levels and this results in less available water for plant growth and soil formation and this leads to lower levels of SOC in this area. Going further north (and northeast), the precipitation levels continually increase and this results in more plant mass able to be produced and more SOC available to be present in these soils. Overall, as temperature decreases and precipitation and available water increases going north, SOC increases. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>The southern <strong>Brown soil zone<\/strong> of Saskatchewan covers the Mixed Grassland Ecoregion of the larger Prairie Ecozone. This ecoregion area is the most arid area in Saskatchewan; it is a semi-arid area with the lowest mean annual precipitation (MAP) and the highest mean annual temperature (MAT). This means that drought tolerant plants will do well here but other plants not tolerant to drought may not. The dominant vegetation in the area is grasses. Large trees and forest areas that require vast amounts of water do not thrive here like in other areas, but they can be successfully planted in shelterbelts if they are monitored and watered sufficiently. Brown Chernozemic soils are the most dominant soil type but soils of the Solonetzic Great Group are also common. The soils here are high in nutrients and great for agriculture. <ul><li>Caragana (<em>Caragana aborescens<\/em>) is a shrub introduced from Siberia. Caragana can grow up to 5 m tall and is very dense and therefore efficient at trapping snow and controlling ground-level wind. It is capable of growing on nutrient-poor soils. Caragana likes full sun, is very drought tolerant and grows best in well-drained areas (e.g., sandier soils). It will not tolerate prolonged flooding and poorly drained soils. Therefore, Caragana is very suitable for the Brown soil zone. Recommended spacing is 1 foot, or 3 feet if under plastic mulch. Its lifespan is 50+ years. Note, seeds can also easily spread if not controlled.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Of the woodland areas that are present, trembling aspen and shrub species are popular. Other species present include choke cherry, hawthorn, silver buffaloberry, northern snowberry, common lilac, eastern cottonwood, green ash, balsam poplar, Alaska willow and white spruce. <\/li><li>These species are adapted to the semi-arid climate and do well in this type of soil.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Next, the <strong>Dark Brown soil zone<\/strong> around Saskatoon and down towards the Regina area covers the Moist Mixed Grassland Ecoregion of the Prairie Ecozone. This Ecoregion is still characterized by the gross Prairie Ecozone characteristics, but has a more subhumid continental climate, an increased amount of woodland area, a slightly lower MAT and a slightly higher MAP level. Soils here are still rich in nutrients and this is where Dark Brown Chernozemic soils dominate. <ul><li>Species that thrive in this soil zone include choke cherry, hawthorn, silver buffaloberry, northern snowberry, eastern cottonwood, green ash, and peachleaf willow. Caragana is also applicable to this soil zone. <\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>The <strong>Black soil zone, <\/strong>found more north near Prince Albert and down towards Yorkton, covers the Aspen Parkland Ecoregion of the Prairie Ecozone and the Boreal Transition Ecoregion of the Boreal Plain Ecozone. This area is overall a mix of farmland and forest with many deciduous species. This area is considered to have a humid continental climate and has a higher MAP level and lower MAT the higher north you go. Black Chernozemic soils dominate, with Luvisolic Order soils found in higher elevation areas of the Aspen Parkland. <ul><li>Trembling aspen and understory shrubbery are prominent in the Aspen Parkland area and species in the Boreal Transition area include many aspen and white spruce along with some jack pine, black spruce, balsam poplar, etc. More species include red-osier dogwood, chokecherry, Saskatoon berry, snowberry, bur oak, and willow. <\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Finally, the <strong>Grey soil zone<\/strong> of Saskatchewan is found mainly in the Boreal Transition and the Mid-Boreal Upland Ecoregions of the Boreal Plain Ecozone. This geographical area is the most north of all mentioned, and this results in this area having the most precipitation and lowest MAT. This higher precipitation level&nbsp; results in organic matter and nutrient leaching from the soils by this water, which results in Grey type soils. This increased water level also means that greater biomass can be supported; therefore, this is the most forested of the areas mentioned. Leaching of the soils and the fact that the carbon in the environment is taken up by the plentiful trees in this area both contribute to the lower levels of SOC as well. <ul><li>Species to be planted in shelterbelts in this area should be able to withstand lower temperatures and higher precipitation levels. Species that thrive in the Boreal Transition area include trembling aspen, balsam poplar, white spruce, balsam fir, willow, some black spruce and tamarack.<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Spacing recommendations<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are different spacing recommendations within shelterbelts for different species of tree and shrub. In general terms, spacing between trees in a row is 2-5 m, and spacing between shrubs in a row is 1-2 m. However, this can vary with shelterbelt purpose, species used, planting site conditions, etc.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>There are different spacing recommendations within shelterbelts for different species of tree and shrub. For example:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Caragana should be spaced 1 meter apart<\/li><li>Chokecherry, pincherry, hawthorn, red elder, red-osier dogwood, silver buffaloberry, snowberry and lilac should be spaced 1 meter apart&nbsp;<\/li><li>Trembling aspen should be spaced 2 meters apart<\/li><li>Bur oak, cottonwood, green ash, hybrid poplar and willow species should be spaced 2.5 meters apart<\/li><li>Spruce species should be spaced 3.5 meters apart&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>As a rule of thumb:&nbsp;<ul><li>Deciduous trees are to be planted 2-3 meters apart&nbsp;<\/li><li>Deciduous trees and shrubs are to be planted 2 meters apart&nbsp;<\/li><li>Coniferous (evergreen) species are to be planted 2-3 meters apart&nbsp;<\/li><li>Hybrid poplars, hybrid larches, poplars or spruces are to be planted 2 meters apart<\/li><\/ul><ul><li>In general terms, spacing between trees in a row is 2-5 m, and spacing between shrubs in a row is 1-2 m. However, this can vary with shelterbelt purpose, species used, planting site conditions, etc.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Space required for shelterbelts in crop areas can be reduced by planting only a single row shelterbelt. However, the spacing <em>between<\/em> plants in the single row should be adequate (i.e., whatever is necessary for the species).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Shelterbelt tree calculator<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Please see the <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/shelterbelt-tree-calculator\/?id=1195835016177\" target=\"_blank\">AAFC Shelterbelt tree calculator<\/a> in order to determine the number of trees required for your specific shelterbelt and the amount of area they will occupy.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Drip irrigation for shelterbelts<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Decide whether you would like to use drip irrigation as a means to water your shelterbelt. There are many benefits to drip irrigation. See \u201cHFIT\u201d for more details.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Planting your trees and shrubs<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Choosing your area is very important when planting a shelterbelt. Soil should not be frozen during planting time, and soil should not be completely waterlogged nor completely dry. The area should also be clear of obstructions such as power lines, other buildings or even underground services. After deciding on your area, make sure to prepare the area a few days before planting, such as weed and debris removal, loosening up the soil. The next steps are digging the hole, planting your tree or shrub, and then caring for and watering the area. See \u201cplanting\u201d (page 2) for more details on planting your shelterbelt.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>This information is for after you have obtained your seedlings and now want to plant them:&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Choosing your area<ul><li>Many farming practice sources recommend to never plant your seedlings into frozen ground &#8211; instead wait during Spring when temperatures are consistently above zero so as to not risk a major frost. If it helps, this is also the time when gardeners plant their gardens. In contrast, some professionals believe that it is acceptable to plant seedlings on a below-freezing day or while there is still a chance of frost as long as the roots remain at an appropriate moisture level, which promotes survival.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Be sure that your soil is not completely waterlogged nor extremely dry. If one of these is true for your site, wait a few days or a week to plant your seedlings.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Make sure the area where your shelterbelt will be planted is clear of obstructions such as powerlines, other buildings or even underground services that can be dangerous and\/or inhibit the full growth of your trees. Objects around the shelterbelt area must also not block sunlight from reaching the seedlings.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Preparing your area<ul><li>Make sure to begin area preparation a few days before scheduling to plant your seedlings.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Remove weeds in the shelterbelt area and any other debris such as dead branches. A 12-inch radius around the seedling area is sufficient.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Loosen up the soil in the area if it seems to be too compacted. This can be done by digging with hand tools, rototilling, cultivating, etc.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Digging your holes<ul><li>See \u201cplanting\u201d on page 2 for more details. <\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>An optional step is to amend your soil. Amending means to change or make better; soil can be improved with nutrient additions or by adding bone meal into the hole where you will plant your seedling. Bone meal can be bought in packages at gardening stores and applied by following package instructions.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Planting  your tree<ul><li>Water and fill the hole<\/li><li>Water the area around the seedling<\/li><li>Protect your trees from pests<\/li><li>See \u201cplanting\u201d on page 2 for more details. <\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:22px\"><strong><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Additional Information:<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/saskagroforestry.ca\/index.php\/services-2\/\" target=\"_blank\">Getting Trees<\/a><\/li><li><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/saskagroforestry.ca\/index.php\/services-4\/\" target=\"_blank\">Planning<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"http:\/\/saskagroforestry.ca\/index.php\/contact-3\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Renovation Techniques<\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><strong>References:<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Care of seedlings and cuttings. (2014). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/care-of-seedlings-and-cuttings\/?id=1346109837809\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/care-of-seedlings-and-cuttings\/?id=1346109837809<\/a>.<\/li><li>Design. (2017). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/design\/?id=1344640294401\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/design\/?id=1344640294401<\/a>.<\/li><li>Ecoregions of Saskatchewan. (n.d.). University of Saskatchewan. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.usask.ca\/biology\/rareplants_sk\/root\/htm\/en\/researcher\/4_ecoreg.php\">https:\/\/www.usask.ca\/biology\/rareplants_sk\/root\/htm\/en\/researcher\/4_ecoreg.php<\/a>.<\/li><li>How to plant a tree. (n.d.). Treetime.ca. <a href=\"https:\/\/treetime.ca\/article.php?artid=6&amp;artcatid=4\">https:\/\/treetime.ca\/article.php?artid=6&amp;artcatid=4<\/a>.<\/li><li>Mize, C. W., Brandle, James R., Schoneberger, M. M. and Bentrup, G. (2008). Ecological development and function of shelterbelts in temperate North America. USDA Forest Service; UNL Faculty Publications, 27-54. <a href=\"https:\/\/digitalcommons.unl.edu\/usdafsfacpub\/40\/?utm_source=digitalcommons.unl.edu%2Fusdafsfacpub%2F40&amp;utm_medium=PDF&amp;utm_campaign=PDFCoverPages\">https:\/\/digitalcommons.unl.edu\/usdafsfacpub\/40\/?utm_source=digitalcommons.unl.edu%2Fusdafsfacpub%2F40&amp;utm_medium=PDF&amp;utm_campaign=PDFCoverPages<\/a>.<\/li><li>Planning your shelterbelt. (2014). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/planning-your-shelterbelt\/?id=1344639901615\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/planning-your-shelterbelt\/?id=1344639901615<\/a>.<\/li><li>Saskatchewan mixed grassland ecoregion species. (n.d.). Nature Conservancy Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.natureconservancy.ca\/assets\/documents\/sk\/Mixed-Grassland-LIST.pdf\">https:\/\/www.natureconservancy.ca\/assets\/documents\/sk\/Mixed-Grassland-LIST.pdf<\/a>.<\/li><li>Saskatchewan moist mixed grassland ecoregion species. (n.d.). Nature Conservancy Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.natureconservancy.ca\/assets\/documents\/sk\/Moist-Mixed-Grassland-LIST.pdf\">https:\/\/www.natureconservancy.ca\/assets\/documents\/sk\/Moist-Mixed-Grassland-LIST.pdf<\/a><\/li><li>Selecting tree and shrubs species. (2014). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/selecting-trees-and-shrubs-species\/?id=1344895876238\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/selecting-trees-and-shrubs-species\/?id=1344895876238<\/a>.<\/li><li>Shelterbelt planning and establishment. (2015). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/?id=1344636433852\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/?id=1344636433852<\/a>.<\/li><li>Shelterbelt tree calculator. (2020). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/shelterbelt-tree-calculator\/?id=1195835016177\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/shelterbelt-tree-calculator\/?id=1195835016177<\/a>.<\/li><li>Spacing recommendations. (2020). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/spacing-recommendations\/?id=1344895588418\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/shelterbelt-planning-and-establishment\/spacing-recommendations\/?id=1344895588418<\/a>.<\/li><li>V\u00e9zina, Andr\u00e9. (2005). Farmstead shelterbelts. ITA, La Pocati\u00e8re Campus. ISBN: 2-550-45563-0. <\/li><li>Yates, Tom. (2020). Identification of Saskatchewan plants and soils. Lecture notes, RRM 215.3.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<!--nextpage-->\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:22px\"><strong><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Planting your shelterbelt<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Potential equipment needed for planting shelterbelts<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Planting bags&nbsp;<ul><li>Used to carry around seedlings &#8211; can include shoulder straps, waist straps, etc.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Reflective silvicool liners can also be placed in the planting bags for proper tree care<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Shovel<ul><li>To make holes in the ground for seedlings &#8211; blade type can be specific to planting (D-handle or staff shovel)<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Plot cord<ul><li>For distancing purposes<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Proper clothing<\/li><li>Miscellaneous items such as duct tape, rope, a knife, first aid kit, etc. <\/li><li>Bag such as duffel or backpack to carry your items&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Propagation<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Propagating a seed will make sure that the tree will obtain the identical beneficial attributes as the tree it came from. This can also be beneficial when availability of a certain species in your area is limited. To propagate a tree or shrub, you can either grow it from seed, or begin from softwood or hardwood cuttings. However, one can also purchase a seedling or sapling. This would speed up the shelterbelt process so it could provide its service faster, but one would also have less control over how well the shelterbelt will grow and succeed. Nonetheless, this is not usually a terrible issue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>Propagating a seed will make sure that the tree will grow to be identical as the tree it came from. In other words, you can artificially select the next generation of tree or shrub, which is especially beneficial when there are some very desirable characteristics from the previous generation. Propagating your own seedling instead of buying a partly-grown tree or shrub can also be beneficial when availability of a certain species in your area is limited, and can also save money from not having to buy a seedling.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Also, note that beginning a shelterbelt at this early of a stage means that it will take longer for the shelterbelt to grow and begin fulfilling its purpose.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>To propagate a tree or shrub, you can either grow it from seed, or begin from softwood or hardwood cuttings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Propagating from softwood cuttings involves cutting away a tender growth from the plant that has grown this year and does not have hard bark yet.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Propagation from hardwood cuttings involves taking a cutting from last year\u2019s growth which has already developed some bark. &nbsp;<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Most shelterbelt trees and shrubs are planted from seedlings. To grow a tree or shrub from seed:<ul><li>The first step is to obtain the seed itself. A seed can be purchased or collected. The most important thing to consider when obtaining a seed is that it is obtained from somewhere with a similar climate and latitude to where the shelterbelt will be planted. If collecting your own seed, choose from plants with the most desirable traits, such as height, leaf volume and disease resistance. There are different ways to collect seed from different species of tree and shrub:<ul><li>Coniferous cones are collected prior to dispersal and are placed in a warm, ventilated area with enough room for the scales to open. From there, the seeds can be collected. Plants with dry fruits such as caragana are also collected in this fashion and given time for their fruit to split and release seeds in similar warm, ventilated areas.<\/li><li>Flesh fruits such as Saskatoon berry are simply picked or shaken from the branch, and the fruit is then broken open to obtain the seed.<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul><ul><li>A next step is to prepare a seedbed. A seedbed is where the seed can germinate and develop into a seedling. A seedbed is usually a bed of appropriate soil with proper drainage. Conifers require shading at this stage and for the first growing season. Deciduous species generally do not require shading. A seedbed does not need to be as large as one may think; a few square inches for a single seedling would suffice. The seedbed step is complete when the seed has germinated into a seedling. Germination times can vary depending on environmental factors such as temperature and moisture, as well as the species involved. Seeds should be monitored frequently in order to watch for factors such as if mold is developing, if the sand or soil is adequate for the plant, if the seed is sprouting, and more.&nbsp;<ul><li>However, note that a seedbed is not always necessary. Seeds can be directly sown into the area of the shelterbelt if both the environment and seed are appropriate and healthy enough to successfully do so.<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Next, the seedling will need to be sown, or, planted. See \u201cplanting trees and shrubs\u201d below for more details.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Care of seedlings during planting<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Protect the roots from wind and sun by covering them with moist soil or peat moss to prevent drying. If possible, plant the trees on a cool, cloudy day or in the early morning or evening rather than on hot, windy days.<\/li><li>Spring planting on a cold, below -freezing day will not decrease the seedling survival, unless the roots dry out.<\/li><li>It is important to always plant seedlings in a cultivated, weed-free site.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Planting trees and shrubs<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There is both hand planting and mechanical planting for tree seedlings. Hand planting involves using a handheld tool to dig a hole in the soil, placing the seedling in the hole, and replacing the soil over the roots. Mechanical planting involves planning and staking rows where trees will be planted and then having a tree planter pulled by a tractor open a furrow that a seed will be lowered into. Caring for your trees immediately after planting will increase the chances of shelterbelt success (i.e., watering, fencing, weed control).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>There is both hand planting and mechanical planting for tree seedlings. To decide which one is most suitable for your project, ask yourself:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Is this a small- or large-scale tree planting project?<ul><li>Hand planting is more suitable for smaller-scale projects<\/li><\/ul><ul><li>Mechanical planting is more suitable for larger-scale projects<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Are the facilities for mechanical tree planters available in your region?<ul><li>If not, hand planting may be your only option.<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Are mechanical tree planters available for you personally?<ul><li>Are there specific reasons such as monetary consequences of hiring tree planters that would outweigh the benefits of planting your shelterbelt?<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Hand planting<ul><li>Consists of using a dibble bar, shovel or spade to hand-dig a wedge-shaped hole in the soil and placing the seedling in there. Study and work with the roots to place them in an appropriately-sized hole. The roots should not be squeezed or packed into the hole, but instead placed comfortably. Then, replace the soil around the roots and pack it down relatively tightly to remove unnecessary air bubbles.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Mechanical planting&nbsp;<ul><li>Often thought of as the most efficient way to plant many trees<\/li><\/ul><ul><li>Stake the rows before planting to make sure the trees are planted with the proper distances between each. Use a meter stick or measuring tape to do so.<\/li><\/ul><ul><li>A tree planter is then pulled by a tractor, and opens a furrow that a seed will be lowered into. Make sure the hole is once again appropriately-sized for the roots and adjust hole size if necessary. Lower the seedling into the furrow right after the tree planter, at a 45-degree angle towards the packing wheel.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><ul><li>Hold onto the seedling until soil falls around the roots and let go of it when the seedling is held by the soil. The packing wheel will then pull the seedling into a 90-degree or upright angle.<\/li><\/ul><ul><li>Then, have someone follow the tree planter to ensure all of the roots are covered with soil and that the soil is tightly packed, or to uncover a buried seedling.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><ul><li>The speed and rhythm of the planter and tractor determine the spacing of the seedlings. It is important to plant the seedlings with the correct distance between them for your specific project. See \u201ctree spacing recommendations&#8221; for more information on proper shelterbelt spacing and placement.<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Care of trees after planting&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Water your seedlings heavily and immediately after planting, but make sure not to drown them if the soil is poorly drained.&nbsp;Continue to make sure the shelterbelt receives adequate water during the course of its life. <\/li><li>Control weeds around your seedlings, especially in the beginning, to reduce competition for moisture, sunlight and nutrients.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Fencing may be appropriate to protect the new seedlings from livestock which can eat or trample them.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Tree guards or repellents may also be used to protect your seedlings from harmful wildlife<\/li><li>Fertilizer applied at the surface of the soil is not always recommended for new seedlings, but certain nutrients may be added if necessary. See \u201cHFIT\u201d for more details.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5818-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-449\" width=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5818-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5818-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5818-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5818-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5818-136x102.jpg 136w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5818.jpg 2016w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><figcaption>Image 1. Caring for shelterbelts by watering. <br>Source: Colin Laroque<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Evergreen trees need special treatment<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Evergreen seedlings can be grown in a seedbed in a nursery for two to up to four years before being transplanted to their permanent shelterbelt area.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Evergreens need to be planted in early spring in order to have enough time to reestablish their roots in the soil prior to winter. This improves chances of winter survival.<\/li><li>Evergreens must be planted on a cultivated and weed-free site. Their roots can also be soaked with water for two to four hours before planting to improve chances of survival.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Roots must be constantly moist, covered and protected during transition into their permanent area. Potential exposure to the harsh outdoor environment should be avoided.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Once planted, the soil around the roots should be packed firmly to remove unnecessary air pockets.<\/li><li>A saucer-shaped depression around the tree can be made in order to hold excessive water away from the seedling.<\/li><li>Planted seedlings should be watered regularly until they become established in their new area. For example, once a week for their first season.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Maturing and matured evergreens should be watered every week if not much precipitation falls in your area. The ground should be heavily soaked, since the alternative may promote shallow rooting, which can result in the tree not being able to tolerate drought.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:22px\"><strong><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">References<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Care of seedlings and cuttings. (2014). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/care-of-seedlings-and-cuttings\/?id=1346109837809\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/care-of-seedlings-and-cuttings\/?id=1346109837809<\/a>.<\/li><li>Piwowar, Joseph M., Amichev, Beyhan Y. and Van Rees, Ken C.J. (2017). The Saskatchewan shelterbelt inventory. NRC Research Press; Can. J. Soil Sci. 97: 433\u2013438. <a href=\"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1139\/cjss-2016-0098\">https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1139\/cjss-2016-0098<\/a>.<\/li><li>Planter equipment checklist. (2010). Summit reforestation &amp; forest management ltd. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.summitplanting.com\/uploads\/9\/9\/5\/3\/9953111\/summit_equipment_checklist.pdf\">https:\/\/www.summitplanting.com\/uploads\/9\/9\/5\/3\/9953111\/summit_equipment_checklist.pdf<\/a>.<\/li><li>Planting new trees and shrubs. (2015). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/planting-new-trees-and-shrubs\/?id=1346110148472\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/planting-new-trees-and-shrubs\/?id=1346110148472<\/a>.<\/li><li>Propagation. (2020). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/propagation\/?id=1346183990557\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/propagation\/?id=1346183990557<\/a>.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<!--nextpage-->\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:22px\"><strong><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Maintenance and care<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Controlling weeds around your shelterbelt<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Weeds are any plant that is considered to be competing with a shelterbelt for resources. Controlling weeds is important to limit competition and should be done throughout the shelterbelt\u2019s lifetime, including before planting the shelterbelt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>Controlling weeds is important to limit competition and subsequent nutrient deficiencies that shelterbelts may face. Weed control should be done throughout the shelterbelt\u2019s lifetime &#8211; from prior to planting, during the seedling stage, and through to maturity.&nbsp; Weed control is especially important before planting and during the first 3 years after planting, since this is when the plants are youngest and most vulnerable. Once larger, they have the possibility of shading out some of the close-by weeds themselves.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Weed control overall increases the health and longevity of shelterbelts.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-large is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5441-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-447\" width=\"500\" srcset=\"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5441-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5441-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5441-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/08\/IMG_5441-rotated.jpg 1512w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><figcaption>Image 1. Controlling weed and grass growth between shelterbelt rows. Weeds can grow drastically in height in little time, so controlling their growth positively contributes to reduced competition within the shelterbelt area.<br>Source: Colin Laroque<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Site preparation<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Weed control begins before planting, when it is easiest to control the weeds.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>First, the site must be initially prepared. This is important because perennial weeds and grasses are much harder to control after the shelterbelt is planted. Hence, it is easier beforehand because it allows one to use a wider range of management practices with no endangerment to the shelterbelt.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Glyphosate, a broad-spectrum herbicide, can be applied at the planting site one to two weeks before tillage in order to kill the weed root system.&nbsp;<ul><li>The planting site should be cleared of sod clumps and large stones as well.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Types of weed management<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are both mechanical and chemical types of weed management. A popular type of mechanical weed management is tillage. A popular type of chemical weed management is herbicide application.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Mechanical weed management <ul><li>Mechanical cultivation, or tillage, is one of the most popular types of mechanical weed management.&nbsp;<\/li><li>There is special equipment available for tilling within a shelterbelt row. Such equipment attaches to the side of a tractor and will either mow the weeds or fully till the soil. Advanced technological equipment can have sensors that specify when to go around a planted tree; otherwise this can be done manually. If tilling with planted trees or shrubs present, it should be done no more than 2 inches deep to avoid damaging any shelterbelt roots.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Please see \u201cHFIT\u201d for more details on tillage.<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Chemical weed management <ul><li>Herbicide application is a popular type of chemical weed management.<\/li><li>Please see \u201cHFIT\u201d for more details on herbicide application.<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Controlling weeds between shelterbelt rows<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In order to mitigate weed competition between shelterbelt rows, non-competitive turfgrass can be planted, the soil can be tilled, and\/or mulch can be laid. Plastic and organic mulches are two popular mulch options.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>Planting and maintaining (e.g. watering and mowing) a noncompetitive turfgrass (e.g. sheep fescue) in between the tree rows can mitigate weed competition.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Weeds between tree rows can also be tilled, which although is sometimes difficult to accomplish in such confined areas without harming the shelterbelt. Between-row tillage equipment includes disc harrows, cultivators and rototillers.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Controlling weeds between shelterbelt rows: Mulch<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Mulch is an effective alternative to both chemical and mechanical weed cultivation and is more of a one-time expense.&nbsp;Controlling weeds by using mulches has been thought of as perhaps the most environmentally safe way to control weeds.&nbsp;Mulches can be organic such as wood chips, straw or hay, or can be inorganic such as plastic or woven fabrics. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>Plastic mulch is an option to mitigate between-row weeds. Plants grow through small holes in a plastic sheet equipped on the ground surface. The plastic acts as a barrier to suppress weeds while also retaining water. The plastic suppresses the weeds by preventing necessary sunlight from reaching the ground.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>In addition to weed control, plastic mulch retains water for the shelterbelt by greatly reducing surface evaporation and stimulates both above- and below-ground shelterbelt growth by retaining soil warmth. <\/li><li>Plastic mulch also works nicely with drip irrigation. See \u201cHFIT\u201d for more details on drip irrigation.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Plastic mulch can be applied with the help of tractor-mounted or truck-mounted applicators. <\/li><li>Choose plastic mulch resistant to UV light to prevent breakdown.<\/li><li>Plastic mulch is susceptible to holes and damage from environmental disturbance such as wildlife and weather, so it must be periodically monitored.&nbsp;<\/li><li>The colour of plastic mulch, due to its reflectance properties, can influence soil temperatures and thereby affect root growth.&nbsp;<ul><li>Woven black fabric mulches are a simple alternative as they not only control weeds, but also allow water to enter into the soil area.<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Organic mulch consists of large organic materials such as wood chips to control weeds and conserve soil moisture in generally the same ways as plastic mulch. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>No special equipment is required to place organic mulch; simply apply the mulch to the ground surface area (although this application is labrous and large quantities of organic mulch may be hard to obtain). <\/li><li>A 10 cm layer of organic mulch is required in order to adequately control weeds. It is important to note, if sawdust and\/or other organic materials are applied greater than 10 cm deep, soil aeration can be compromised, which should be avoided.<\/li><li>Organic mulches are positive in that they insulate the soil and limit temperature fluctuations, allowing for consistent growth of the shelterbelt.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Mulching with grass or crop residue will have to be replenished more often than wood or bark chip residue, which the latter can last up to 5 years. Also, mulching with larger wood pieces reduces rodent populations and subsequent impacts on the shelterbelt.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Weed control and the nearby microclimate<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In areas where there is complete weed control, the microclimate and microenvironment near a new shelterbelt is normally warmer and drier than the area surrounding it. Diversity of plant species in this area is diminished as well. Therefore, with less weed control there is more biodiversity in the area (more species, more habitats, etc.). Both weed control and biodiveristy is important, so this is something to think about while planning and maintaining your shelterbelt. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:18px\"><strong>Pruning trees and shrubs <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tree pruning is the act of trimming or cutting away certain branches or stems of a tree to help the tree thrive and increase productivity, fruitfulness and growth. The three main reasons to prune a shelterbelt are to remove branches for disease control, hazard prevention, and\/or aesthetic purposes. Pruning can help strengthen the plant and promote rapid growth, and can be done during multiple times of the year.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How pruning affects plant growth<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When you prune a tree, you remove top growth but not root growth. Less top growth subsequently requires less water and nutrients. This greater amount of roots supplying nutrients to a reduced amount of top growth results in strong, rapidly growing, above-ground tree parts.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Note that (often unwanted) suckers\/shoots near the tree or shrub can rapidly develop as a consequence of this strong growth.<\/li><li>Shoots often develop from the site of the pruning cut and grow in the same direction that the past branch had been.&nbsp;<\/li><li>However, pruning should not be avoided because of the chance of shoots developing, since there are many other benefits to pruning. <\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Pruning<\/strong>&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are three main reasons for pruning shelterbelts:&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Dead, diseased or broken branches are removed for safety purposes and disease control. <\/li><li>Potentially hazardous branches that grow into areas interfering with power lines, machinery operations, or&nbsp;have the potential to damage properties, are removed.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Suckers and wide-spread, interfering branches can be removed for appearance purposes.&nbsp; <\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>However, useful branches should not be removed if they are only simply an eyesore. Removing lower branches especially should only be done if there is a need to alter the windbreak provided by the shelterbelt.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Other reasons for pruning:<ul><li>At planting time&nbsp;<ul><li>After transplanting a tree, some of the tops can be pruned in order to equal out the loss of roots. This helps train the tree to develop sufficient mass at a sustainable level. The amount of pruning for this purpose should not be more than one-third of the plant\u2019s total top growth.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>For training purposes<ul><li>Pruning can be done to help the tree develop a strong framework for continual future growth.<\/li><li>To develop a tree to withstand strong winds, a tree can be pruned to a few strong, widely-spaced limbs, so all nutrients absorbed can be forwarded to these few limbs, in order for them to grow to their full potential.<\/li><li>To develop a shade tree, lower limbs can be pruned off to a height 2.5 m above the ground surface. Ideally this pruning is done over a long period of time so the tree remains strong and capable of adapting to limb removal without developing disease or other ailments. In addition, an encouraged option is to prune such lower limbs first to stubs, since these stubs act to draw up water and minerals, and can grow leafy shoots which further photosynthesize and make food, all aiding in creating an even stronger trunk. These stubs will eventually be removed as well.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Pruning can be done to eliminate weakened branches that are in spots of competition with other branches<\/li><li>Pruning can be done to benefit the undergrowth below the tree. For example, to revitalize the lawn below the shelterbelt.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Pruning times<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pruning can be done during multiple times of the year.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Advantages to pruning in the later winter or early spring:<ul><li>There is less damage from infection between trees. But, pruning at this time can result in a fewer number of leaves being produced the following year.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Deciduous trees and shrubs are recommended to be pruned when they are dormant, such as early spring, since at this time healing will be done rapidly and almost immediately. The subsequent growth can also be less negatively affected if pruning is done at this time.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Advantages to pruning in the summer:<ul><li>When the trees are in full-leaf, it is exceptionally easy to locate dead or diseased tree limbs.&nbsp;<\/li><li>As an exception to the dormant pruning rule, maple, birch and elm should be pruned in mid-summer so they do not lose excessive sap like they would during the other times of the year. Mid-summer would also allow them to have enough time to heal properly before the next winter.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Pruning of dead branches can overall be done at any time since no living tissue will be affected.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>How to prune a tree or shrub<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Appraise the tree and the adjacent area in order to select the proper branches to cut, and to decide on a safe removal method. The 3-step cutting method is recommended in order to avoid damage to main limbs or trunks of trees when pruning. It is important to ensure the maintenance of the natural form of the tree, and to remove only what is necessary.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>First, appraise the tree and the adjacent area in order to select the proper branches to cut, and to decide a method for removal that safely lets them fall to the ground. With this initial preparation, there is less chance of damage being done to you, the tree, or the area around the tree.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is recommended to remove around 15 cm or more below any evidence of disease. This usually means to simply cut back to a living, healthy branch; either a lateral branch, meaning the main branch from which the diseased parts are growing from, or the trunk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The 3-step cutting method is recommended in order to avoid damage to main limbs or trunks of trees when pruning.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>The first cut is made part-way through the diseased branch on the underside<\/li><li>The second cut is made 2-3 in inches further out on the branch, top-down. The weight of the branch will cause it to break free of the main tree and fall, all without any excessive bark or tree damage.<\/li><li>A third cut is then made reasonably flush with the main limb or trunk so as to remove the stub left behind from the fallen branch. This leaves a flush and minimal exposed surface that will allow the cut to heal properly over time.&nbsp;<\/li><li>And of course, always take caution when pruning in order to avoid accidents that could cause harm to yourself or the tree or shrub.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>When pruning, it is important to ensure the maintenance of the natural form of the tree. Major alterations should not be executed unless completely necessary.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When pruning, remove only what is necessary, in order to maintain shelterbelt density so the trees can fulfill their full potential in their purpose of reducing wind, for example. In any case, do not remove more than 25% of living tree parts in one season.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Pruning equipment&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Pruning equipment includes, but is not limited to, handsaws, polesaws, bucksaws, chainsaws, secateurs and lopping shears. Be sure to care for and periodically disinfect your tools as sometimes they may contain harmful bacteria or chemicals from other trees.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>There are specific saws designed for pruning that are compact and designed for large pruning jobs in small spaces. For example:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Bucksaw<ul><li>Similar idea to a bow saw; a bucksaw is a hand-powered saw with a normally \u201cH-\u201d or \u201cC\u201d-shaped metal frame, and can be a one- or two-person saw.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Can be used for cutting large limbs<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Chainsaws&nbsp;<ul><li>Chainsaws are not recommended since although they are fast and efficient, they often do not cut cleanly through the wood. This lengthens healing time.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Secateurs<ul><li>Also called \u201cpruners\u201d, secateurs are small, single-hand pruning clippers used for small branches.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Scissor-action secateurs are often considered the best at making exceptionally clean cuts. Anvil-action type secateurs are also an option.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><li>Lopping shears<ul><li>Lopping shears are two-handed pruning shears with handles normally 1-3\u2019 long and used for smaller branches. Some loppers can be bought with handles that have extensions up to 2 m long.&nbsp;<\/li><li>Handle lengths differ, and some lengths can work better than others for certain pruning jobs.<\/li><li>Scissor-action lopping shears are also recommended over anvil-action ones.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Always ensure your pruning equipment and tools are in good condition in order to make sharp, clean cuts into branches. As well, when dealing with diseased parts, disinfect your tools between each cut. A 5% javex or an alcohol solution will work for disinfecting.&nbsp;<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Pruning evergreens (coniferous trees)<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Overview<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Many evergreen trees have a classic pyramid shape which should be maintained whenever possible. Removal of entire branches should only be done when absolutely necessary. Overall, pruning of coniferous shelterbelts is regularly only done by trimming the tips of the branches.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p>Although the 3-step deciduous method can also be used for large evergreen pruning jobs, many evergreen trees have a classic pyramidal shape, and this shape ideally should be maintained since it is how these trees naturally thrive. Removal of entire branches should only be done when absolutely necessary, e.g, due to reasons such as disease.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After pruning an evergreen, other adjacent lateral branches can be trained upwards and towards the direction of the gap in order to replace the pruned limb and retain the pyramidal shape.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Overall, pruning of coniferous shelterbelts is regularly only done by trimming the tips of the branches. If this pruning pattern is done routinely, noticeable increases in shelterbelt density can be seen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"font-size:22px\"><strong><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">References<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Controlling weeds in your agroforestry planting. (2016). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/controlling-weeds-in-your-agroforestry-planting\/?id=1346110876860\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/controlling-weeds-in-your-agroforestry-planting\/?id=1346110876860<\/a>.<\/li><li>Esau, R. (2007). Weed control for Alberta shelterbelts. Alberta Agriculture and Food: Agri-facts. <a href=\"https:\/\/www1.agric.gov.ab.ca\/$department\/deptdocs.nsf\/all\/agdex977\/$file\/277_645-1.pdf?OpenElement\">https:\/\/www1.agric.gov.ab.ca\/$department\/deptdocs.nsf\/all\/agdex977\/$file\/277_645-1.pdf?OpenElement<\/a>.<\/li><li>Plastic mulch. (n.d.). Wikipedia: The Free Encyclopedia. <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Plastic_mulch#Weed_management\">https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Plastic_mulch#Weed_management<\/a>.<\/li><li>Pruning trees and shrubs. (2015). Government of Canada. <a href=\"https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/pruning-trees-and-shrubs\/?id=1346179616865\">https:\/\/www.agr.gc.ca\/eng\/agriculture-and-climate\/agricultural-practices\/agroforestry\/growth-and-maintenance-of-trees\/pruning-trees-and-shrubs\/?id=1346179616865<\/a>.<\/li><\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Planning your shelterbelt Overview Often the most important step in shelterbelt planning is choosing plants that are suitable to successfully grow in your geographic location. Other planning aspects include choosing your shelterbelt design and determining equipment needed. Identifying your concerns of the area and determining how a shelterbelt could help mitigate these concerns is important [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-290","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/290","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=290"}],"version-history":[{"count":31,"href":"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/290\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":589,"href":"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/290\/revisions\/589"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/iss.madlabsk.ca\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=290"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}